Valves inc Russian for Phono2 and 3

[Dave999]

i think I have the originals somewhere, for the phono II. i replaced them at some point with sylvania... if i've got the lid off time to try them out again they were JJ tubes but not sure which version.

[Phil Y]

The jj 803S are the best of the few current manufacture I've tried, I have them in my Phono.

Phil.

[Richard]

Yes I've still got my Phono JJ ECC83S and thought they were good valves. I was using GE5751 warm and full sounding, and EI ECC83 very dynamic and clear. I'd certainly give any of them a go again if I was still using it. Much is just "flavour" depending on the system, especially with a vinyl set up, so it's good to try previous valves before buying more again.


I've also got a load of 6H2n-EB from other projects which are a lovely valve. A joy to behold the looks! 3 are banded together for Phono but it needed a small re-wire for the heaters - not hard as the heater wiring is separately connected to the pcb - but I never got around to it. The adaptors look good but I don't think the cover will fit on Phono with them.

[Phil Y]

Just in case there is any confusion here, the JJ 803s are not the same as the "standard" JJ 83. The 803s are JJs premium offering with claimed tighter tolerance and generally high spec.

They are on the JJ website, also listed are gold pin versions that seem to be not available anywhere I have seen, in the UK at least.

Phil.

[Dave999]

Well i had a look in my box of valves and dug out the JJs, and yes, perfectly good. Standard ecc83, but after a day or two i went back to the sylvanias, they just provide a little more weight to the lower mids and bottom end

however some russians arrived, 6h2n-EB (in russian) 6n2P-eV in english with a rocket on the box....

they are indeed Nice, nothing about them shows shoddiness of any nature nothing looks, a bit wonky, so to avoid undue messing with the PCB i invested in a set of converters from china.

These as far as i can tell, remove the centre tap pin 9 of the ECC83 heater from the equation. These valves need a 6.3 AC or DC supply and instead use pins 4 and 5 for +6.3 and 0 volts. So i presume the converter base links pin 5 to pin 9 of the original socket and leaves the shield at pin 9 on these valves floating or tied to something else.

they have a shield between the triode sections like that rare mullard valve that i always forget the name of E8??CC that is an ECC83 with totally different pinout and a 6.3 volt heater

anyway they work very well. nothing looks amiss in the power supply either the sound is subtly different but again i do like it, i can certainly live with these and have that feeling that they will grow to be a favorite, only 3-4 hours on them at the mo, but as stated by richard i can't get the lid on.....

so next move is chinese PCB valve converter prototype board

2 types 3 square breadboards with 9 pairs of screw terminals, 4mm stand off feet, and a nice ceramic 9 pin socket. These will be mounted to the rear of the front plate in a row, or up the back where the step-up txs would go if i was equipped for moving coil.

and a set of 7 or 8 to 9 pin converter boards, using pins out of an old serial lead will be pressed into use as plugs to go in the original sockets...
unless anyone knows a supplier of the old style 9 pin valve socket Plugs used to provide off chassis power to add on devices like MPX boards in tuners....

the other set that arrived today are pencil tubes, 6N17B-V, V is the mark of the military again. these were made for the analogue electronic computers in 1970s/80s russian missiles.

they come in much like a ecc83 just not quite the same amplification and with the russian 6.3v heater problem when you want to use a ECC83 socket.
the rest seems to match up ok with an ECC83 as far as i can tell probably 75% of the gain of a set of ecc83s
so tiny and cute
I can't not give them a try....

if you get the urge, again the chinese prototype board for converting 8 pin tubes to 9 pin sockets is key.. i'll have no problem getting the lid on with valves from lilliput.....
nice gold grids as well ....

Pin 1 on these tiny things is marked in 2 ways

1) Pin 1 is marked by a printed rhombus with an N in it, the lower point of the rhombus markes lead one on the valve
2) on the base...and my eyes are dim....with my glasses a magnifier and a strong light. somebody has imprinted a tiny - in the valve base, 1 end is closer to pin 1 than pin 5 so if the printing is all to cock you can still find pin 1

obviously check continuity between what you think is 4 and 8 to be sure.

if it all ends in tears and smoke, its my own fault but its keeping me occupied....

Dave

[bob orbell]

If you got a new board from Matthew (phono III) you can connect the heater tabs to 4-5 and 9 or any combination you want, that will enable the lid to fit and it has the added advantage of the 3.18uS correction, low filters if you wish and adjustment for the 75uS capacitance, also added HT capacitance and it will fit you II case. Bob