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#1
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Non parallel internal faces
Just before I place the final nail/screw/glue in my front facing, square ported, baffle step arrangement coffins I am playing with the idea of pouring something into the different crevices therein and allowing it to dry and harden at different angles so as to guarantee there are no 2 sides parallel anywhere. Bearing in mind I am using rock wool and similar as stuffing - Is this a loony OTT idea - don´t worry, I won´t be hurt by anyone´s exclamations - but if not, what relatively rapid-setting and self-levelling goo could I use that shouldn´t come loose with time once the boxes are sealed. Has anyone been there and done that ?
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#2
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Re: Non parallel internal faces
Sounds messy and quite expensive.
Presumably it will reduce the internal volume as well. Can't really see what you would gain by it. |
#3
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Re: Non parallel internal faces
If I do it, I can assure you it will be messy. Don´t they say that the best shaped box is a sphere ´cos there are no reflecting parallel surfaces or am I way out of line ?
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#4
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Re: Non parallel internal faces
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If you are concerned about parallel sides and reflections then try sticking something on the inside to break them up. Maybe some lengths of half round wooden beading or a random pattern made up of small wooden blocks. Self adhesive flashing cut into small pieces could work. Bits of carpet and so on. Does it mention anything on the plans? |
#5
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Re: Non parallel internal faces
I once asked the chap from ipl acoustics (can't remember his name) this very question. He said you can pour in some plaster of paris and let it set whilst propping the enclosure at the desired angle. He then added "but it is not worth the trouble". Hope this helps.
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#6
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Re: Non parallel internal faces
Quote:
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#7
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Re: Non parallel internal faces
Ta very much - saved me a messy job,
Chris |
#8
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Re: Non parallel internal faces
The only point I would make is do any of the chambers need to be air tight? If they do (it's good practice with any design really especially if you have used butt joints) I would advocate locating the cabinets at angles so the joints of concern are horizontally positioned at the bottom of a verticle plain and then drizzling in Evostik type wood glue into the internal angle of the joint and leaving to set. This will ensure good sealing and the glue will naturally settle to form a smooth edged seal. I had to do this on my WAD KLS3's and with two seperate chambers and all the different joints/mating faces it was very time consumming but in my view, very worthwhile. Certainly I've got no gripes about my speaker performance.
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