Making speaker cabinets

[Edwin]

If you contact me via a PM we can decide the best way of getting the plans to you.

[Cycleallday]

Simon,
I started with the W25A standpoints and then 'upgraded' them to the floor models. Both were used in a small room and work really well when very near the back wall (in my opinion). I listened to them at Peters place before buying and have never had any desire to move away from them.

Anyway, I believe I still have a complete pair of crossovers for the standmount versions (not the ex tweeter version) and a disc with the plans for building both versions.

Contact me if you are interested in the crossovers or would like a copy of the disc.

Mel

[simcox1]

I have PM'd both Edwin and Cycleallday

[VantheMan]

I have the WD25TExs and I built them myself, getting them finished off (rounded edges on front baffle and 2 go-faster grooves down the fronts) and lacquered by a pro in the same colour as the walls in a bid to make them disappear physically just as they do sonically. I found it was quite easy to build the mdf square "tubes" (sides, front and rear) first and then sort of "line" them inside with the various pieces of chipboard and braces and loads of glue, then in turn lining the chipboard with the black goo and the fibre filling. The sandwich build made the driver cut outs a piece of cake using a simple adjustable halogen down-light ceiling cutter to mark a larger diameter on the mdf than on the chipboard and then carefully using a jig saw just shy of the mark and a wood file. My crossovers are external using Neutrik speakons to connect at both ends.
IMHO the use of external Xovers is to be recommended as it has allowed me to experiment in affordable upgrades with a) Mills resistors b) teflon caps and now c) Jantzen wax coils. In both a) and b) things have improved quite a lot - I don´t think the original components (wirewound enamels and Soniqs caps were anything special). The jury is still out on the inductors.
I can´t say I ever noticed any glaze to the sound using the Millennium tweeters from the beginning (I´ve never heard the original tweeters) but the use of Mills 12w resistors certainly took care of that lending a much smoother and more sophisticated sound to proceedings and the depth and sheer amount of bass improved no end after changing the paralleled 6.3 and 3.8uF caps Soniqs in the original kit for a Russian paper in oil/teflon pairing of the same total value. No idea why especially as they are in series in the tweeter section of the crossover but I´m not going back to the originals, that´s for sure.

http://s524.photobucket.com/user/Van...tml?sort=3&o=0

[VantheMan]

I don´t know if you have started your WD25As yet but just in case not, I would have a think about implementing the aperiodic port on the side panels somehow rather than on the front. That reticulated foam tends to sag and look a bit of a mess for a full frontal. I can´t help thinking the rectangular cut out should have been done inside out so the actual front baffle would have defined its lines and some sort of retainer on the inside.
Of course I reached these conclusions after building them which explains why I decided to go for the floorstanders in the end.
By the way, if you haven´t got the foam for the aperiodic port it needs to be a specific density. There was a guy in Sweden on this forum - Saschagabor - who used to sell it as he was forced to buy an inordinate amount from a wholesaler and tried to cut his losses.