Fakedeck DD?

[Richard Higgins]

Hi
As an alternative view, I've been running a Lenco with 12 inch wooden arm and a Kenwood 8030, both with 103s for some time now.
I think the Kenwood is probably better, but its marginal, I need to change my m/c transformers from the WAD ones, perhaps then I'll hear more of a difference.
Sorting out the capacitors in the PSU made a much bigger difference than the difference between the decks. (I'd bypassed the 100mf + 100mf Black Gates with 1mf Solens, what a mistake).

Regards Richard Higgins

[Black Stuart]

Richard,
stay away from Solens, they will only make the sound grey overall.

Have you got rid of those squishy feet that come with the Kenwood, I am waiting (something you do a lot of in Spain) for my slate feet to be made, which themselves will be bolted to a snakeoil stone shelf.

[Richard Higgins]

Hi Stuart
Solens gone, sound opened up.

I made some wooden cones to replace the rubber feet but they made it worse, then I realised they were too large a diameter and touching the wooden body.
Thanks for reminding me, I've made them smaller in diameter, so I must give them another try.
The original feet are a stiffer version of the feet on Linns Trampolin, although I'm not sure thats exactly a recommendation.

Regards Richard Higgins

[spikeyfaz]

Stuart

My lowly KD-2077 has convinced me to convert to DD but I really fancy the 'skeletal' look. Does removing the plinth of the spider-chassised Kenwoods alter the sound in any way?

Mike

[Black Stuart]

Spikeyfaz,
that's not a question I can answer at the moment as I hav'nt done it. The Kenwood is, or seems to be vibration free and in part this maybe because of the high density chipboard of the plinth, one Kenwood came with a mahogoney plinth.

If going skeletal did produce this effect I think it could easily be dealt with by filling the chassis indents with lead shot. This would also look attractive and in keeping with the aluminium spider chassis.

Using a heavy inert material (stone) for replacement feet and bolting the whole thing to a suitable stone shelf should improve what is already a deck with very good bass and articulation.

I don't know but I feel that the whole mains Tx/PSU section might well repay a careful look. Suspending the mains Tx on arms with rubber grommets is a great idea that can't be bettered but if exposed it could be presented in a far more attractive way- just don't lose that wonderful Japanese 'suchness' to the whole design.

Until I buy a second one, I'm not touching anything - I like fallback positions.

[spikeyfaz]

Well, after spending more and more time with my Kenwood, I am convinced that I will be going for one that I can de-plinth.I love the sound that I'm getting; just want something that is more visually appealing.

Having said that I may re-plinth the one I've got as an interim measure. It looks a bit naff with it's fake wood finish and there are a few holes now where I've removed the stock arm. I don't want to lose that lovely sound though. I don't think MDF is the way to go. Perhaps one of those granite chopping block might do.

[Hugo1]

Originally Posted by spikeyfaz

If you are not too keen about dismantling/carving up your Kenwood, you could try an off-board arm to see if you like the sound.

Mike.

That's not really a problem - it can easily be dismantled and if necessary put back together again. The motor block would go really easily into a more solid CLD type plinth, but first I shall see (or rather hear) how it fairs with a decent tonearm fitted to the stock chipboard plinth. That requires very minor surgery to the arm mounting hole, which needs opening out towards the platter. The surgery would subsequently be hidden if I put the Kenwood arm back in. See the attached photos, which show the motor block and the arm hole.

For the feet, I shall use Stillpoints, which have dramatically improved all aspects of my Spacedeck's sound.

Cheers

Hugo

[Black Stuart]

Hugo,
your Kenwood is different from the 990 series - the arm is mounted on an arm of the spider so is de-coupled from the plinth entirely.

[spikeyfaz]

If I do re-plinth my KD-2077 I will make sure the arm is decoupled from the plinth (my recent experiments have shown this makes an improvement to the sound).

The arm pillar will rest on the same base that the tt sits on but will not contact the plinth: I'll just cut a hole big enough for it to poke through without actually touching the plinth. First things first though. I 've job-lot of Lenco tt's to sell!

[Hugo1]

Originally Posted by Black Stuart

Hugo,
your Kenwood is different from the 990 series - the arm is mounted on an arm of the spider so is de-coupled from the plinth entirely.

I know - but it's not necessarily inferior; however it's much easier to play around with.

If I do re-plinth my KD-2077 I will make sure the arm is decoupled from the plinth (my recent experiments have shown this makes an improvement to the sound).

I also reckon that a small degree of decoupling is good, so the armboard that I will make for the KD-770D will be stuck to the plinth using thin double sided adhesive tape. This will also mean that the plinth is cosmetically undamaged if things don't work out.