KEL34 just acquired

[goonybird]

Thanks again, The mismatched EL34 were just for testing and getting it up and running. I think 2x are JJ 1x Electroharmonix and 1x I forget but only cost about £30 the lot (all new unboxed)

[Richard]

Hi yes I'd build it all as standard first to check all is well. It looks like it's wired as single input with vol control so a CDp/tuner will be ideal for a listen. Keep an eye on the EL34s for any overheating or humming (signs of imbalance) and use old speakers or a couple of 8 ohm resistors as loads for testing and voltage checks. You can always mod it later if you feel the need. I thought mine was a great amp with lots of bounce and drive more akin to an ST20 than a Radford I think, be good to hear how it goes

[goonybird]

Grief over 6 months without progress.
So found a Toroid Tranformer Metal cover on ebay from China for under a tenner.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120-66mm-...53.m2749.l2649

Fits perfect so will mount mains tx on top for cosmetics. good finish and match for black on main chassis. 3 holes drilled with grommets for wires. Going to try a M6 Nylon fixing bolt through for safety.

Other job is polishing OP Tx tops, wanted chrome but quoted £60!, then will get on with selective components replaced upgraded.

BTW some lettering is a bit patchy, any suggestions to re-letter controls etc

[Greg.]

I wouldn’t use a nylon bolt to mount the Tx. You want to torque this fixing up tight. Nylon won’t do it.

Your old O/P Tx covers are probably cadmium plated. You’ll never get them to buff up well and in any case they’ll go dull quickly. Lacquer just makes it go milky. Contact WD owner, Matthew and see if he’ll sell you a pair of chrome covers. If not, do an internet search. You may well find covers nicely finished that fit. £60 for chromeing is the going rate generally.

Regarding your lettering problem, I’d be inclined to fit an engraved or silk screen printed face plate. If your chassis size is the same as the current WD one, you could buy one from Matthew, WD. You would need to move some stuff around such as putting the mains input switch to the chassis rear, making volume pot and selector switch simetrically located. These days, do you still require the tape out switch?

Failing that, design your own faceplate. Go to:

https://www.frontpanelexpress.com

Or

https://www.schaeffer-ag.de/en/downl...yAAEgJeu_D_BwE

You need to learn their software but both of them produce a cracking product. My observation is most DIYers doing this at the moment use Front Panel.

I hope that helps.

[goonybird]

Hi thanks again.
Just put Mains TX on today and M6 Nylon bolt and nut surprisingly torques up nice and solid.
Other job was cutting out a hole for an IEC socket.
Have been polishing the O/P TX caps and they have come up lovely. They originally appeared more like untreated mild steel dull and spots of rust. Will try spraying with lacquer. If it doesn't work can always strip them.

[bob orbell]

We your advice fell on deaf ears Greg, .I suppose we all thought we knew everything once. Bob

[Phil Y]

Greg,

Thanks for those links.
Do you know (very roughly) how much they charge for a panel?
Lets say for arguments sake, a simple design, similar to a WAD amp, a couple of holes and a bit of lettering, e.g." Volume" and "Selector".

Phil.

[Greg.]

Sorry Phil, I haven’t a clue, but go onto AT and PM Ray P or Thermionic Idler as they’ve both used Front Panel recently. Ray would be your best bet as he has done the sort of thing you are talking about.

[goonybird]

Originally Posted by bob orbell

We your advice fell on deaf ears Greg, .I suppose we all thought we knew everything once. Bob

Not sure if thats aimed at me?

otherwise people been helpful on here.

[bob orbell]

Greg myself and many others have a wealth of knowledge on here, Greg advised against using a nylon fixing, I agree, Greg advises don't lacquer the OP transformer caps and your next post say's you have used nylon and lacquered the caps, as I said. Bob