solder iron

[Pingushome]

Bob you old cynic 🤭

But be aware this solder has a high melting point according to Google it’s
217 deg C.Whereas others are around 170 - 180deg C
Martin

[bob orbell]

But will one hear any difference between this fancy expensive solder and good old tin lead, I think not. Bob

[Pingushome]

True Bob 😂😂

[Pingushome]

Just a bit of inf for those wanting that leadedsilver solder from RS, they have some in stock now but you’ll need an account, or get some one who has an account to order it for you.

Martin

[bob orbell]

I have an account with RS. Bob

[Pingushome]

HiBob
Likewise 👍👍

[TimN]

They've only got 5. Better be quick!

[Mark]

Originally Posted by Greg.

Using the right iron and solder makes all the difference in this hobby and over the passage of time I have learnt a lot both from experienced/professional users and my own mistakes and experience.
I would recommend a temperature controlled iron. Both digital and analogue types work well. Weller is a popular choice which have a reputation for lasting many years of frequent use. A cheaper alternative is Antex, but they are less long lived. They are fine for the average hobbyist who is not using the iron every day. I used to have an analogue temperature controlled Antex which did me well for a number of years. I did need to replace the temperature control board in the iron, but I may have just been unlucky. I now use a Metcal which are stupidly expensive, but an absolute joy to use. I just happened to get lucky when I was offered a little used second hand one. I use four different bits depending on the job. A point bit useful for repairs on commercial PCB’s and three different sized chisel bits.
I suggest the use of a low temperature melting point solder which contains a little silver. I use, as do several other experienced hobbyists a 179°C LMP solder which is 2% silver, 62% tin and 36% lead. RS Part No. 551-671.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solder/0551671

Hi,

I am trying to solder some replacement fat caps into the power supply pcb of a friend's vintage amp. I have an inexpensive HQ temperature controlled soldering iron that is claimed to be 48W and the maximum temperature it claims on the read-out is 480 C which is normally more than adequate for what i do, but in this case it's not enough to fully liquefy the solder - it stays mushy. I suspect the problem is the huge area of copper on the pcb acting as a heat sink, but my soldering iron could be knackered. Is low melting temp solder a solution ? Can anyone recommend a mega heat soldering iron for one-off jobs soldering to "heat sinks " ?

Thanks

Mark

[TimN]

There are plenty of 100W irons on Amazon for less than 20 quid which should be OK for infrequent use.

Incidentally, I ordered some of the solder recommended by Greg. It didn't quite make the free postage barrier so I added a single bit to the package for about £2 which took it over the barrier.

The next day, they informed me that they had removed the solder from the package as it's a hazardous substance and charged me about £6 for posting me the bit.

[Mark]

[quote=TimN;95541]There are plenty of 100W irons on Amazon for less than 20 quid which should be OK for infrequent use.

Tim,

Thanks, yes, my mate has since pointed me to a (claimed !) 100W temperature controlled soldering iron on Amazon for £12. I hadn't realised they had become throwaway items. I spent more than that on some spare bits for the iron I have !

I have just checked RS' price for the low temp solder : £40 ex. VAT !!

Mark