RB250/300 mods

[Black Stuart]

That was a good decision Richard.

I have used both an RB250 and 300, the last fully modded. What I really hated was having to use both models loosely fixed because if you tightened them even finger tight, the sound was awful and unless one was really careful the arm base would literally 'move' if I was too heavy handed.

Having used a semi-automatic arm for over a year now, I don't think I will ever use any other type of arm in the future.

[Richard]

It's strange how folk are now saying they prefer some decoupling of the arm isn't it.

This is clearly a different beast to the Rega arm but even back then, when it came out (this one is 1980), there was the option to use supplied rubber grommets for decoupling, or not. Perhaps it will vary from deck to deck depending on the type of plinth. The hole is 20mm without and 25mm with grommets. The armboard shown was Mayware's own made for this deck from 5mm perspex with a ground finish supported on (I think from a quick look) delrin pillars. Perspex, hmm, seen that somewhere before recently . The hole they supplied in this case was 20mm, so the arm is mounted with just the perspex decoupling on this suspended chassis deck.

The light is not good but when I saw this record on it I couldn't resist a couple of pics

[david counter]

Hi Richard,
I noticed the instructions mention grommets, mine didn't have any with it,
do you think they make a difference?, do you think it's possible to get something similar?

just to try it out I've got mine mounted on a perspex board and held down with double sided foam tape which seems to decouple it quite well,

I must admit I do like the sound, it does have a very engaging sound quite unlike my SME M2

[Richard]

Hi David,

Yes the instructions say to drill a 25mm hole but the arm pillar is only 20mm and that's the hole size Mayware supplied for the Thorens board. Thoughts are that the rubber grommets might be prefered with a solid plinth such as for a 401. Hopefully the makers will have had a listen at the time but there was also the fashion for bolting everything up tight wasn't there. Also, some decks of the era may have rumbled more than others etc.

Attached is a pic of the grommets. They are soft rubber (not PVC) and could probably be made from a 1" wiring grommet with one flange cut off. Perhaps support a grommet on a broom handle and roll a sharp craft knife round it.

Dimensions are to fit a 25mm hole with a 20mm inside hole. All walls are 2mm thick.

Rich

[david counter]

thanks Richard,
that's a good idea about the 1" grommets, I'll give it a go, as you say they must have done it for a good reason,

[Greg.]

For reference, my Mayware F4 Mk3 came with a Denon DD TT all for just £100 I believe this was the original shop fitting. Mounted on a piece of perspex as armboard, there was the 20mm hole through the board and a single rubber washer on the top side but the nut with ali washer was hard to the perspex on the underside so not proper decoupling.

Happy Christmas,

Greg

[Richard]

Hi Greg,
Wow, you did well, I happily paid 2-3 times that. Mind you, it is mint boxed, even with a full tube of silicone, and what else can you get for that money?
atb for the New Year,
Rich

[david counter]

interestingly there does seem to be wide range of prices for the Mayware,
one went on ebay for a 'buy it now' price of £79 last week where others have gone for in excess of £200, doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason,

[Greg.]

Hi Richard,

I stumbled on a badly advertised TT which incorrectly identified the arm and didn't major on the quality of the TT. On searches, the usual triggers did not throw it up. This is probably my best deal on ebay to date.

Happy New Year!

Best wishes

Greg

[Richard]

Originally Posted by david counter

interestingly there does seem to be wide range of prices for the Mayware,
one went on ebay for a 'buy it now' price of £79 last week where others have gone for in excess of £200, doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason,

Hi David,

The £79 one was certainly cheap and may be down to it being a MkI or II as it has a separate arm rest which wouldn't fit easily on decks such as TD160. MkIII onwards had the rest incorporated in the arm mount.

Headshell on the earlier model is pressed metal rather than cast though I don't know if it sounds any different. Whatever, these are still great value arms.

Rich