wd25a, are they for me?

[BOONDI]

Originally Posted by graeme

I want a satin sheen really, but not too shiny.
I don't really want an obvious layer on the wood, so am shying away from varnish/lacquer.
Thats why i want to try wax or oil, but if it doesn't look right i wouldn't be able to varnish over it. Thats why i want to try it on scraps first.

You could try danish oil, as it can be varnished over if you don't like it. It gives a subtle glow to the grain of the veneer and can be buffed to a satin sheen, just what you want......

Also, when considering staining, some people find most stains to be too red, or dark. What I do to get good colour, is mix several different stains together to produce a blend that gives me a colour I like. Just measure a spoonful of each and mix in an small plastic tub.
Good results with Ebony or black ash stain rubbed on and then wiped straight off with a clean rag. This has to be followed swiftly by the light stain or mix. The effect this creates is to highlight the grain pattern in the veneer.

Have fun.....

sounds good, i dont want to change the colour, but including scraps means others can practice.

I like the sound of danish oil, sounds like exactly what im after. Is it a type, or brand? Where can i get it?

[Shane]

Originally Posted by graeme

I like the sound of danish oil, sounds like exactly what im after. Is it a type, or brand? Where can i get it?

Are you anywhere near a boating area? Most chandlers will have a product called Deks Olje (pronounced Deck-sol-ya), which is used for oiling decks and wooden fittings. There are two different types; one gives a soft satiny sheen with a couple of coats, the other can be built up with six or seven coats to give a gloss finish.

http://www.flood.com/Flood/Products/...oduct+Page.htm

Ive no idea about any local boating areas, but ill keep an eye open.
the danish oil seems quite easy to get, so ill give it a go first.

[BOONDI]

Hi Graeme, all....

Danish oil can be bought at any timber merchants or B&Q store. It can be built up in coats, with light buffing inbetween to get the required sheen. Finish lasts about 6 years and then just needs to be given a wipe over using rag soaked in the oil and re polished.....

When you get the cabs, give them a very fine sand with 1000 grit wet and dry. Just a couple of rubs in the direction of the grain. Then using a tack cloth, remove the dust from the veneer before applying the oil.

The boat finish sounds interesting, must have a look at that.....

[I love my records]

Thanks for the phasing advice, Peter.

Dave.

[Greg.]

Hi Graeme,

Here's some advise based on my own opportunity of having experimented with finishes on the Oak veneer WD use for their cabinet kits. I've trialed this veneer with numerous spirit and water based dyes, finished with oil. This veneer is probably the lightest Oak finish I have ever encountered and particularly is of a very fine grain. A professional finish is therefore easily obtainable to the home constructor.

I would steer clear of varnish and polyurethene etc. Danish Oil has been suggested and certainly this is good, but it does introduce its own yellowing/oranging colour. A better option is Finishing Oil which has all the properties of Danish Oil without the colour. It's available from any good timber merchant, but not necessarily from the likes of B & Q.

Experimenting with some off-cuts first would be good and maybe Peter could facilitate you for a small price in this area. If you want to stain first you will find that spirit and water based dyes, even of the same colour have subtle differences in presentation. You need to decide what you prefer.

The raw wood veneer first needs to be sanded with very fine grade finishing paper to get it completely smooth and then vacuumed clean of dust. You can also wash clean with water or turps, but realise that such a process will cause the grain of the wood to swell and therefore become less smooth. Good vacuuming and dry dusting is best.

Once stained (or not if a natural finish is preferred), oiling is easy. The technique is the same for Danish and Finishing Oil. Apply liberally with an oil soaked rag and leave for about 15 minutes and then dry rag off any excess oil and then leave to dry for about 6 hours. Repeat the process a minimum of three times. The more coats added, the better the depth of finish. Between coats, rub over the wood surface lightly with 000 grade wire (finishing) wool. This removes dust and any high spots. The advantage of this process is that you can assess the finish you want as you prgress. The more coats you add, the deeper the sheen. Once the final coat is applied and very lightly rubbed over with finishing wire wool, you have the option to leave as a semi-matt finish or, with vigorous polishing with a lint free cloth, bring the finish to a good shine. The more you polish (dry cloth only) the better the shine.

Certainly an oil finish is in my view going to give you the best professional finish and allows you shed loads of flexibility on the final presentation.

Best wishes,

Greg

[Cobblers]

Interesting, it sounds like oil finishing is more forgiving of poor application, and will give a more traditional pro speaker finish, for those who are prepared to put in the time.

http://www.woodworking.com/wwtimes_oilfinish.cfm

[jimangus]

I too am wondering if these are for me.

I really would like to have a listen before taking the plunge.

Is this possible any where. As i live in derbyshire.

I do have some concerns from the frequency responce graph of the low bass output. I would have the floorstanders but i would n't fit them into my tiny cottage, and i can't afford them.
Any coments about depth of bass output.

I had a listen to a pair of klipsch heresy 2's the other day, a staggering speaker just a bit (a very very small amount) harsh at the top end, but the bass was almost non existant, in terms of extension, what was there was beutifally integrated, but output only goes down to 63hrtz. That would really annoy me from a 12inch driver. Are the wd25's simular in this aspect that the low bass output is limited for a 10" driver ?

Any guidance would be fabulous.

Regards
Jim

[Greg.]

Hi Jim,

You have no option but to suck and see. WD offer the option of a listen at their base and of course you can bring your own kit to couple with their speakers. I've listened to both the stand mounters and the floor standers and both really do the business IMHO. I've also previously listened to Klipsch which to me were very raw and harsh. Personally I regard the WD's as much more suitable. Really you have no other option unless you want to trust the opinions of posters like me If I was you, I'd not be happy with what I've said. I'd need to hear for myself. Book a day off from work and visit WD. It'll do you good and get your thinking into perspective.

Best wishes,

Greg