Slatedeck Plinths now available

[NickG]

modern speed stable belt deck

Thats part of the problem, they are anything but speed stable.

[Greg.]

I've not listened to a non-stretching tape drive so can't comment. Idler drive convinced me (Garrard 401) even in a lashed up experimental plinth which showed it was shed loads better than my Michell Gyrorbe. The Gyrorbe represents alot of money. 401's with a bit of DIY are certainly a more affordable route to the better LP sound and I'm sure Lenco's do the same. Likewise, I'm not into (can't) investing £5K to £10K on a TT. There are some issues I need to overcome (see another thread) but I'm sure I'll arrive with satisfaction in the end. I'd certainly like to explore slate. Still thinking this through.

Best wishes,

Greg

[Paul Barker]

If it costs £10,000 it must be speed stable surely? No? Oh well, Garrard goes like a train.

[Triode junky]

Hi All,

Defeatists the lot of you. I would say it would be relatively easy to put a 'tape driven' deck together.

One: Take the platter and bearing assembly from your GL75

Two: Mount said assembly on one of those new slinky slate plinths, or make your own from marine ply.

Three: Source motor from either Origin Live, Michell, or surf the net for a suitable candidate.

Four: Approach engineering firm, to machine a suitable pully.

Five: Source videotape from your local Wilko's, to create a loop, surf the net for splicing tape, it's out there...

Total outlay, approximately between £350.00-£650.00, considerably less than
£10,000.

Go for it boys,

T.J.

P.S. As soon as I've finished my degree, this is what I intend to waste my time on..

[Stratmangler]

These guys looked into non flexible drive belts http://www.clearlight-audio.de/conte...urntable_E.pdf

The principle works very well too.

Chris

[Clive]

An low flexiblity tape couples the motor more tightly to the platter.

TJ, I reckon you'd be better off with a more powerful motor than a Michell or OL. With more rigid motor to platter coupling you're getting part way to an idler. Could sound good, almost as good as an idler.

[Greg.]

Hi Darren and Peter et al,

I'd like to get this thread seriously back on topic, being the availability of Slatedecks through WD. My reason being that I am seriously in the market for a Slatedeck and I'd like to explore the options prior to making an order. My reasoning is that through my own experiments, a Garrard 401 mounted on a substantial high mass plinth, but not necessarily a CLD option really does work. I also know and trust the ears of Peter, Neal and Paul, not to mention Jonathan Noble and some notable others.

I've done a bit of off and on forum research which others can easily do if they wish, and coupled with what is written here and on other threads on this forum I've deduced that whilst Darren is Slatedeck, Peter as WD is the point of contact for a retail order. I further established that Darren is a flexible guy and can customise his designs to suit a particular need of the customer.

My desire is a plinth for a 401 with the arm mounting board as used with a Rega at the recent Heathrow Show. Although this particular design is not yet featured in the WD sale catalogue, I anticipate it will be shortly. I note that a basic 30mm 401 Slatedeck plinth measures 465mm (w) x 455 (d) and retails on offer at £379. I understand the Rega version I am after has the same dimensions. I anticipate when published, owing to the extra armboard work, the price might be a little more.

The issue for me, and may well be for others is the need for a custom constructed deck that fits in with the current system and in particular, the TT support shelf. I have a wooden springy floor and I have to use a wall shelf. I use a now rather dated Target TT1 which I intend to retain. Here it is with the shelf removed revealing the spiked supports.



If I have a Slatedeck, I want to support it with this shelf so I need to make some adjustments. My ideal is a double 30mm slate plinth with the lower section resting directly on the spikes with isolation support between the lower and upper plinth (either my own ball bearing options or spiked as Slatedeck supply). Thereafter, I like the idea of a decoupled armboard (as supplied) that has some versatility to accommodate different arm choices.

Considering the standard plinth dimensions, to create the necessary depth, I'm going to need to modify my shelf frame. I think I can remove the rear top horizontal shelf edge section without effecting the strength of the shelf so the support would now look like this (Please excuse my amateurish computer editing skills).



This will accommodate the depth I need on the shelf to accept the Slatedeck. After further consideration, I don't think I can work with a lower plinth that fits within the dimensions of the frame even after I've removed the rear horizontal strut. Consequently, I'm looking to support the whole structure above the basic frame top, coinciding dimensionally with that frame and stepping the base (lower) plinth with legs/blocks so it is supported properly above the whole surface of the frame. That would mean a lower plinth that corresponds with the external dimensions of the support, but also supported with pillars of Slate to lift it above the upper surface of the shelf.

Breaking here because of size of post. More to follow.

[Greg.]

Continuation is...........

Going on from here and acknowledging the price of a double plinth as advertised, that's a real challenge to my financial pocket. It did strike me that maybe I could do this in stages. Therefore, order a top plate plinth but support with an alternative method (MFD) until I have the funds to shell out for the rest of the Slate parts. I'm trusting on the flexibility of Slatedeck and WD here

So, to get down to the detail, would it be ok to buy a 30mm Rega style double plinth customised so width is extended from 465mm to 505mm (add 20mm either side), but to also skim off 5mm from the depth (wherever best) to reduce it to 450mm? Can I buy the top plinth and armboard first and order the bottom section later when funds permit? Finally, as I'm after a customised product, is it best to feed everything through WD or is it better to do this bit directly with Darren, but sort the payment and delivery with WD?

Best wishes,

Greg

PS. I'm no fool and I've researched the value for money Slatedeck offers retailed through WD. I went to a local decorative Mable company that could do anything you wanted and also deals slate products. Certainly they could facilitate my requirements. There is plenty of slate from around the world readily available and most of it is cheaper than Welsh and other British sources. However, the foreign stuff (especially Italian) is very very soft, and a three year old child with a biro could gouge a very deep scratch in the surface with little effort. British slate, and in particular Welsh Snowdonian is regarded as the hardest and best, hence the price. Furthermore, it exhibits that sectional or partical structure that is believed to be the essence of why this material works sound wise so well. Going on from that, I got this company to quote me for a cut pattern of a Slatedeck and they were way way more expensive. The price of Slatedeck is excellent and with the introductory offer, I don't think it could be bettered. Sorry Darren, not distrusting you, just exploiting my own DIY initiative.......you'd do that wouldn't you?

[Darren D]

Hi Greg,

Thanks for your kind words. No problem in making adjustments to fit your Target stand.

Discussing yours and others issues directly on the forum is a good idea. That way others with interest can follow the progress and maybe contribute some ideas of their own. The more input the merrier on such matters.

All final orders will have to be placed via Peter at WD.
I'm starting to receive quite a few request, which is good of course. But I'm sure others would like to follow the progress and certain issues in hand. Besides, I repeated myself so many times at the show it would be nice to say it just the once. Well Ok I'm hoping somewhat there but you get the idea.

We'll have to go through the points you mention Greg but I'm sure it can be achieved whilst retaining the aesthetics etc.

Firstly I would advise against fitting the Slate directly onto the Target spikes. Though Welsh slate is very much harder than the alternatives it could still be damaged in this way.
If you wish to experiment I would advise using coins or some such bonded to the plinth to mate with the spikes. Double sided tape would be ok to start with at the experimental stage.
One idea would be to use some Slate blocks to raise the plinth so it sat above the Target framework. So you would have, coin/slate block/plinth.

I don't think we could rest the lower plinth within the framework, it's just not a large enough opening. Once we cut the main turntable orifice the slate would be too narrow around the edges to be structurally stable.

Not sure if you need the rear bar cutting off the stand. I just can't tell without having one in front of me. What we need to know is how much clearance there is for the motor etc.

Your top plinth dimensions sound fine, I will check that later today and report back.

Purchasing the top plinth alone is an ideal way to make a start. I would suggest simply placing it directly on the Target framework and experimenting from there. I have no doubt you would be overwhelmed by the sonic upgrade even at that basic level. I certainly was with my floor stand which is similar to you wall mounted unit.

One idea would be for you to cut a piece of cardboard to accurately fit within the framework and push this down on the spikes thus marking it. Cut another piece to fit the outside edge and mark all internal framework esp the rear bar in question.
Then if you could send those to myself we can go from there.

Hope that covers it for now, if not just ask away
Best regards
Darren

[Darren D]

Originally Posted by Greg.

PS. I'm no fool and I've researched the value for money Slatedeck offers retailed through WD. I went to a local decorative Mable company that could do anything you wanted and also deals slate products. Certainly they could facilitate my requirements. There is plenty of slate from around the world readily available and most of it is cheaper than Welsh and other British sources. However, the foreign stuff (especially Italian) is very very soft, and a three year old child with a biro could gouge a very deep scratch in the surface with little effort. British slate, and in particular Welsh Snowdonian is regarded as the hardest and best, hence the price. Furthermore, it exhibits that sectional or partical structure that is believed to be the essence of why this material works sound wise so well. Going on from that, I got this company to quote me for a cut pattern of a Slatedeck and they were way way more expensive. The price of Slatedeck is excellent and with the introductory offer, I don't think it could be bettered. Sorry Darren, not distrusting you, just exploiting my own DIY initiative.......you'd do that wouldn't you?

LOL...I did try to hint at this, but I was in a difficult position really.
Though I realise and sympathise that some may think the Slatedeck products are expensive, the reality is they are not cheap to make. But if you take a look at the rest of the market and the alternatives the picture looks quite different. I have tried my best to keep the cost down whilst maintaining quality. Quality must come first in my book.
Sonically...well, I'm sure soon enough some reports will filter back.
I'll leave it at that for now.

Best regards
Darren