WD25T version confusion

[Greg.]

The following thread has thrown up some confusion over the various versions of the WD25T floor standing speaker kits.

http://www.world-designs.co.uk/forum...ead.php?t=8143

Using original WD files, I can confirm there were four versions of this speaker.
25T STD (one version) used the Seas 29TFF/W tweeter.
25T XL (two versions with two different crossovers) used the Seas T29CF001 tweeter.
25T EX (one version) used the Seas T25CF002 Millennium tweeter.

I hope this corrects any confusion.

[VantheMan]

Thanks Greg, just as I thought.

[TimN]

Originally Posted by Greg.

The following thread has thrown up some confusion over the various versions of the WD25T floor standing speaker kits.

http://www.world-designs.co.uk/forum...ead.php?t=8143

Using original WD files, I can confirm there were four versions of this speaker.
25T STD (one version) used the Seas 29TFF/W tweeter.
25T XL (two versions with two different crossovers) used the Seas T29CF001 tweeter.
25T EX (one version) used the Seas T25CF002 Millennium tweeter.

I hope this corrects any confusion.

I am thinking of having a go at building some WD25Ts. I have been working through the archive CD ROM and reading articles in this forum looking for information and plans for them. I am still working through it. I see there are basic plans for them in articles 1603 and 1604 and further information on WD25T V2 in Designing Speakers 17 & 18, but I have not yet come across specific details on the differences between -

25T STD (one version)
25T XL (two versions with two different crossovers)
25T EX (one version)

Are there any articles I have overlooked? I have never built any speakers before and have some basic questions, so could use all the help I can get.

The V2 version in 17 & 18 appears to have a different base. Is the design for this detailed anywhere? Where and how is the crossover board mounted? Where are the updated millennium (or other) drivers and associated crossover designs detailed/specified?

When these speakers were sold as kits were there any instructions supplied with them? If so, are they still available from anywhere?

Any help anybody can give me will be very welcome.

[bob orbell]

Hi Tim, I cant' be of much help with your questions, but, I borrowed a pair of these from WD many years ago and my thoughts are very poor towards them, for such a large speaker, the bass was, to me, weak, even with the speakers hard against a wall, this appears to be a Peter C trait as the Quad range he designed have similar sound, in comparison, modern small speakers are far more enjoyable, to me anyway, plus you need to be a good cabinet maker to achieve a smart finish. Just my thoughts. Bob

[TimN]

Thanks for the advice, Bob. Maybe I will stick with my FB1s for now.

I'm looking for my next project. Maybe a WD Pre-amp or phono stage. I can be building the PSU while I make my mind up.

[bob orbell]

The Phono is very good Tim, mine runs from a fully regulated PSU and all Phonos' components were matched, the first stage has Charcroft Z-Foil resistors, recommended by John Caswell, expensive but well worth the price and Wima MKP10 coupling capacitors, I did try many expensive fancy capacitors, but rejected all of them. Bob

[TimN]

Sounds like a plan!

[VantheMan]

There must be a few WD25T owners who have never removed their bass drivers to check the condition of their aperiodic port foams. If anyone is interested, mine had completely crumbled to dust and I know of at least one other identical scenario, so maybe it’s not so surprising that many complain of lack of bass with such a largedriver and box because their ports are probably just not working. I have also completely restuffed my boxes using, instead of the polyester/dacron stuff I had, a glass fibre/ cotton mix that “heavies” use to tune their motorbike exhaust boxes. I think tone improved. I also drilled out 2 more 60mm holes in the mainbrace allowing easier access for the sound waves produced to the rear wall and thence downwards towards the port instead of rebounding back immediately to the driver cone. Seemed like a good idea at the time and I believe detail and speed of bass both improved markedly. I’m not suggesting anyone should follow my steps but I do think a check of the state of the port foam is in order. I am using the material from 4 facemasks in a pile folded to fit the gap at present but suggestions for an alternative are welcome.

[TimN]

I must admit I still find the idea of building my own speakers appealing. Does anybody have any experience of Wilmslow Audio or any other kits?

[Greg.]

Wilmslow Audio had a great reputation twenty to thirty years ago. I see they are still going strong although you don’t hear or read much about them theses days.

There are some really great kits here.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Lou...r_Projects.htm

If you purchase this website’s DIY archive CD-Rom, there is a choice of at least 14 fabulous speaker kits of the WAD KLS series.
http://www.world-designs.co.uk/cd%20rom.htm

Most of the KLS kits used Audax drivers, many of which are still available from this company http://www.cadaudio.dk/audaxunits.htm who still do several of the KLS kits. I remain very contented with my KLS3’s.

Of course, buying from Denmark will mean paying the extra that Brexit (the gift that keeps on giving) has brought, but still worth it IMHO.