Stylus Cleaning Methods

[colin.hepburn]

Hi All
Just thought it would be interesting to take another look at a subject that hasn’t been discussed in a while on the forum .and that is stylus cleaning even if you no longer play records now how did you do it back then and know for that matter if you are still playing your records.

My carts are the Ortofon 2m Blue and Golding G1042

My most used cart is the 2m blue which I just brushed before and after play with the brush that came with it but I also sparingly use a liquid the Audio-Technica AT607a fluid and the stylus is still very good and is still the original stylus from when I got the cart in 2005

Now my Goldring 1042 is even older costing me £120 so the price has increased somewhat into day’s money it was a trade-in with an Audio-Technica AT-F2 Moving Coil Cartridge. At the time and was not used other than a test setup on my Thorns TD 160 Rega RB250 arm until now as its now back in play on my AR EB101

So only has about maybe 15/20 hours on it now and has only been cleaned by the brush method no liquids used So should I use this Audio-Technica AT607A. Fluid. As it did not harm the Ortofon 2M blue stylus but same may not be true of the Goldring
So how would you go about it?

1. Dry brush only
2. Dry brush plus t sparingly use of the Audio-Technica AT607a fluid
3. A gel such as the Zerodust perhaps
4 Or do you have other methods.
Colin

[willslenco]

Hi Colin

Tricky decisions which can have dire consequences. Here's my take on it:

1. I first only play records that I have personally cleaned using a two bath Knosti system (IMHO the most cost effective way of doing a good job which also combats static), bath one with a homebrew IPA/distilled water/surfactant and bath two a rinse of distilled water, then air dried.

2. My MC cart is an Ortofon quintet blue and Ortofon specify only to use the stiff bristle brush supplied, I find that this (used after each record side), plus 1. above, is sufficient to keep the stylus clean. I also occasionally use Audio Technica AT450E carts (equivalent to the top of the new VM 7** range) with various styli, I use the same method with these but if they do get dirty I am happy to use AT cleaning fluid as recommended by AT.

3. I have used some of the gels etc available in the past but have found that stylus required more cleaning when using them, I assume that the gels leave some residue on the stylus thus attract grime.

4. As for older dirty styli, which I might like to try to resurrect, I will happily use a carbon fibre abrasive pen, AT cleaning fluid, magic eraser etc

Hope that helps

malcolm

[colin.hepburn]

Hi Malcolm
Yep I did not comment on the record cleaning bit as I took that to be a given My Record cleaning is done much in the same way you have described but I made a cleaner of sorts from an old turntable platter and my old vacuum cleaner very heath Roberson but it sort of works it's crudely based on this link don’t laugh

https://www.teresaudio.com/haven/cleaner/cleaner.html

But I clean with my carbon fiber brush and dry brush the stylus on every side as I play them its part of the record playing richly we enjoy and I have kept the Audio-Technica AT607a fluid away from the Goldring 1042 for now

[bob orbell]

Here is my take on styli cleaning, I agree with keeping records clean and because I always remove the turntable lid when playing I clean both sides before playing. Now, over the years I have been plagued with dirty styli and now after going to a new Ortofon Cadenza Bronze around March this year, I have never cleaned the styli nor do I need to, interesting. Bob

[willslenco]

Originally Posted by colin.hepburn

Hi Malcolm
Yep I did not comment on the record cleaning bit as I took that to be a given My Record cleaning is done much in the same way you have described but I made a cleaner of sorts from an old turntable platter and my old vacuum cleaner very heath Roberson but it sort of works it's crudely based on this link don’t laugh

https://www.teresaudio.com/haven/cleaner/cleaner.html

But I clean with my carbon fiber brush and dry brush the stylus on every side as I play them its part of the record playing richly we enjoy and I have kept the Audio-Technica AT607a fluid away from the Goldring 1042 for now

Funnily enough I built one of them as well a number of years back but found it increased static build up - I wear Crocs around house which doesn't help either though

[willslenco]

Originally Posted by bob orbell

Here is my take on styli cleaning, I agree with keeping records clean and because I always remove the turntable lid when playing I clean both sides before playing. Now, over the years I have been plagued with dirty styli and now after going to a new Ortofon Cadenza Bronze around March this year, I have never cleaned the styli nor do I need to, interesting. Bob

Yes some styli certainly seem more prone to getting dirty - especially bonded rather than nude.

[A.N. Beal]

Dear All,
Expert Stylus Co. recommend stylus cleaning using a cotton bud sprayed (not soaked) with alcohol-free lens cleaning solution (available from opticians). They warn that solutions containing alcohol can soften the adhesive used to fix the diamond in place. I have used this method for several years now with very good results and no problems. (I use a stiff carbon fibre brush to remove fluff.)
Regards,
Alasdair

[bob orbell]

Bonded versus Nude


In a bonded stylus, a diamond tip is glued onto a shank of a different material (usually steel) that is itself glued onto the cantilever. While a bonded stylus saves a lot of diamond material and thus is less expensive to manufacture, this construction has a higher combined mass that can negatively affect the transient response. Nude styli, shaped entirely from diamond material, are more costly than bonded styli but their lower mass allows them to track more accurately. Generally, bonded styli are only applied in cost-effective styluses and cartridges and Nude is pretty much the standard for high-quality styluses.

Until 1977, diamond stylus tips used to be made from actual, natural, diamonds. After that, the industrial diamond made its entrance. Made in a lab and chemically identical in structure, artificial diamond is nevertheless said to be slightly less durable than real diamond. Bob