SP10 has entered the building

[NealG]

Hooray! SP10 arrived this AM. Now I've something to play with to alleviate 4 boring weeks of 'chavball'...

Only problem is the darn platter screws are missing, in case I can't get them from the seller, anybody have some (OK fat chance!) or know where I may get some.....

Q for Gerry, shall I remove the brake? I think you did and did you mount the SP10 with or without the bottom cover?

[Gerry]

Neal

Congratulations.....hours of fun ahead.
Yes remove the break, sevo and damping pad. I have put the plastic dust cover back on on.
Might be worth checking the oil and bearing wear....just remove the kindney'ish shaped plate with two retaining screws and you can lift the top part of the motor with bearing up.

Plater screws!!!...I have no idea where you might find these. I can give you the sizes etc so you could have some made up if that would help?

Bottom cover: I mounted with this, just make sure you clear the rubber feet on it. It adds to the mass of the unit.

Regards

[NealG]

The seller says he has found the screws so we shall see if they turn up! In the mean time I've fashoned a dowel out of one of these:



Also been looking at plinth designs and wondered if anybody had thoughts on this idea found on Direct Drive Museum:

http://de.geocities.com/bc1a69/kaneta_eng.html

IE remove the motor and bolt it straight on to a new CLD plinth, naturally the electronics would need relocating...

[Gerry]

Neal

I did look at that but to be honest it was the mucking about with the electronics which put me off, partly b/c mine has the pro psu. Kaneta did quite a lot of work on these, on other sites I've found his schematics but they've been poor scans and in Japanese.
I think it looks interesting and see no reason why it shouldn't work and certainly should be an improvement.
I've been tempted to get another one just to try it. I always thought your SL150 would be ideal for this. The motor from the brief look appears to be very similar.

Regards

[Max N]

Hi neal
That's what I'm planning to do with my second SP10 - someday.....
There's no need to do the Kaneta electronics mods. As you say, you can just re-house the standard electronics. I think the BBC versions might be a better bet, as more of the electronics are already remote.

[Gerry]

So how are you guys getting on with your SP10s....????

Max, the electronics in the BBC's are the same within the actual TT unit, just a couple of components missing from the boards, and some added. The remote electronics are a beefed up PSU and the ability to remote the speed, on/off, and variable speed control and all important telephone mute/call system. In fact the Beeb added a board to do this! Very hard to reverse...I've spent a fair amount of time looking and trying to no avail!

Regards

[NealG]

The screws arrived! So one problem sorted. Re the psu I've come accross an article in the old DIY supplements about improving the PSU and cleaning the motor so may well give that ago when I have the time.

Not been able to start work on the plinth been too busy at work.

Think I'll keep it simple to start with and just bolt the whole deck to a plinth.

[Gerry]

Neal

If it is the same article as I have....it is only for the the BBC (RP2/9) ones!

http://www.vinylengine.com/library_m...ted_model=SP10

Second from the bottom.

Regards

[NealG]

Oh.... At least I should be able to clean the motor

[david counter]

just a bit of general information if I can
I keep lusting after one but I'm a bit worried about the electronics
do they go wrong?, is an ex BBC one a problem?, are there supplies of components?,