Cold cast resin plinth ?

[pre65]

Hi-due to the failure of the "post mix" plinth i am looking at other ideas.The drywall adhesive is still a contender,but looking at a Kenwood deck on e-bay i wondered about a resin plinth.

I have been checking for resin supplies and i quite fancy a resin layer about
1" thick with a copper filler together with a black pigment.Think how that would look when polished as the plinth top layer !

Or i may use it as the last but one layer and cast it directly onto the base,using loads of proud screws to key it on.

Anyone got a GL88 baseplate they would like to sell,or a GL75 one i can cut the RH edge off ?

Philip

[Gerry]

Philip

This is something I thought of doing with my SP10.
I talked to Rob42 about it, he uses resin for windsurf boards...the plan was to cast using resin in layers, lining the mould with greasproof paper to get a really smooth finish. Rob suggested some other stuff which would be better and alow the resin to break from the mould with ease.
As the layers of resin set I would then add glass, stuff you get from the garden centres for plants, next layer alumium swarf, and maybe some lead shoot or the likes for the last layer. Colour could be added and the plinth plosihed.
I had even thought of putting birch ply sections in as arm mounts etc...bit like the Trio LO-D7.

I still think it is worth a go, it was just easier to make the plinith I did. I might still try the resin route...just time and the making of the mould!

Regards

[NealG]

How's about a potting compound like this:

http://www.intertronics.co.uk/products/acc02.htm

resin is quite dead, but its also very expensive. It would cost loads to cast a block of resin to make a plinth ulnless you can find a cheap bulk source.
Ive only used resin in small quantities making jewelry, and the resin cost aroung £6-7 for half a litre.
Sorry if my spelling is bad, im a little drunk

[pre65]

Hi Graeme-only a little ?

thanks for the info.i found this supplier on e-bay

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Mould-Makin...Q3amesstQQtZkm

i can see the products are not cheap but i was looking for something that does the job soundwise and has visual impact.

there was a time when it didn't matter what things looked like but i'm more fussy now.

if you know of any other good suppliers of these products please post their details.


Philip

[Gerry]

Philip

Compared to a 8x4 sheet of Baltic birch ply at £70 odd...it doesn't seem too bad. It is difficult to work out how much you might need though. Interesting he does have fillers, and of course if you were to use other fillers such as glass etc it would reduce the amount required.
I have a plan forming....
We should talk when you come over....thinking about it my plinth needs to be deep...70mm or so but actually the a fair chunk is cut out to take the TT, so it might not require as much as thought.
I thought you might be able to get the stuff from ships chandlers. In the US when I restored a 37ft ChrisCraft, I used resin and could by it by the gallon, not too expensive, just harded very quickly! You had to move fast!!!

Hmmm...this has really got me thinking!!!

Regards

[pre65]

Hi-doing a quick volume calculation (maths ) i recon that what i had in mind could use nearly 10Ltr of resin,but with filler,glass balls,pigment etc i recon 5L would be enough.

The glass balls are a lot less dense apparantly so it would make a weight difference,is that good or bad ?

Philip

[Gerry]

Philip

I was thinking of the glass balls to a). add weight and b). break up resonces within the plinith.
Also adding a birch ply frame within the plinth so that arm boards etc could be easily be bolted on. It would also add some ridgidity to the structure...aluminum could be used too I guess but harder to machine...also I have a lot of birch ply left!
Could almost be a sandwich type construction.
Making the mould strikes me as being the hardest part....how difficult was it for your plaster/concrete attempt?
What did you use...ply?

Regards

[pre65]

Hi-yes i used a bit of old ply as the base and some bits of 2x2" (1 3/4 "X 1 3/4" really) as the edges,then gave it an undercoat and top coat of gloss

i made the mistake of screwing and glueing it.

if you just screw together it should come apart easy to get the item out,but i think you will still need a release agent.

i levelled it up on my bench with a spirit level (not quite so important with concrete) and tamped down using the 2X2 top edge as the marker.

with a liquid it will find its own level.i read that using glass beads will LIGHTEN the finished product !

as i said before,my idea was to construct the mould around the plinth base and pour directly onto the base,using proud screws to "key" it on.with a pigment in the resin you wont see them.


Philip

[colin.hepburn]

Hi All
I used to do fibre glass laminating as a living you would really need to make up a mould with glass laminate and resin at least 10/12 mm thick on box section steel frame other wise the mould will twist out of shape due to the heat generated plus the mould must very highly polished or you will never get it out