My lenco project

Well, ive been asking everyone alot of questions, and looking around here and lenco heaven, so now its time to show you what im going to do with my deck.
It arrived today
Here it is, a leak badged lenco l75.

Sorry about the picture quality, £10 digi cam



Maybe i paid a little too much (£51) but i liked the clear lid (may re use it) and the seller had it for a year, the guy he bought it of 'said' it had been serviced.

I was going to test it at every stage, but thats not looking that possible as the arm is shot and the plinth is like a bloody bouncy castle!!

However, with it unplugged, and switched on, the platter spins for ever and is dead quiet.
turned on, it is super smooth and silent, quieter than my rega plannar!

So, the plan is, cut the right hand side of the chassis off, weld the radius edge back on to keep it looking good, and keep the strength.
I might try and strengthen the chassis, ill see when i take it apart.

Ill try and damp the platter and any other parts i can, build a birch ply plinth with seperate arm board (so i can change arms easier), fit my rega rb250 arm and then maybe modify the bearing.

Might try and make something of the origional arm at some point, but that will be after its all up and running.

One question, how do you get the platter off? I assume it just lifts off the spindle. Must be stuck.

the only thing im not sure about is if ill build the new plinth to be seen, or build it inside the old plinth as i quite like the looks of it. Goes quite well with my quad amps. Any opinions?

Il keep you updated of my progress, and where possible will run listening tests at intervals so i can see what difference the mods make.

thanx for all your help, hope you enjoy this thread as it unfolds.

[NealG]

Getting the platter off takes a bit of practice, you really need three hands, one hand each side of the platter as if you are trying to lift it off with force and a third hand to 'tap' the centre spindle to release the bond between platter and spindle. Use a block of wood or small mallet to tap the spindle, but not too hard mind!

Its off , it the spindle suposed to lift about 5 mm?

First thoughts, the idler wheel could do with a shim to take up the very slight side to side play.
Im not convinced the alluminium rod its on is strong enough either, any thought on if thats a problem or not?
The way i see it, the idler wheel needs to be held in place as firmly as possible to stop any possibility of it wandering up and down the conical motor shaft.

[NealG]

Yes the spindle lifts up by about 5mm, that's normal.

Take it apart and grease it up!

The rod is fine, no need to think about changes in that department unless its faulty somehow. If the wheel is fixed properly and the rod secured correctly at the other end then it's not going to move, I'm not aware of anybody having an issue in this depeartment.

fair enough, i think ill still shim it though, its only a small amount of movement, but i dont like it.

Good news on the bearing. its fine so im going to leave it be for now.
Once its up and running ill mod the bearing and see what difference it makes.

Its in pieces now, the ally trim is off (it will be replaced)
Just sorting out moving the on off switch so i can cut the right hand side off.

I took the brake out too, i want to get rid of any un needed parts. I dont see the need for a brake, its just another flappy piece of metal.

I think i might weld strengthening ribs on the chassis from the spindle out. Just lines of weld will do the trick, just to strengthen it up a little. Cant be too strong now can it

[pre65]

Hi-i assume they are all the same but the side play on the idler wheel is adjustable.if you undo the nut and lock nut to clean and oil the wheel bearing you can adjust when you put back together.
i would imagine a "gnats" of side play would be optimum (ie not tight).

has anyone heard anymore about the ceramic ball and thrust plate for the bearing ? i sent an e-mail to enquire but have heard nothing back.

Philip

[Shane]

Originally Posted by graeme

fair enough, i think ill still shim it though, its only a small amount of movement, but i dont like it.

I wouldn't if I were you. I think the idler needs a little room to wander. If you constrain it with shims, you may increase the rumble. Better to let it find it's own position than to try to force it.

Its not got a lock nut, its held with spring clips.

What i dont like about the play is it gives the idler a chance to wander, altering speed. Only slightly i admit.
I have a range of shims from shiming the gearboxes etc in nitro R/C trucks.
Theres definately room for improvement in the side play.
I dont think theres enough pressure for the flex in the rod to be a problem though.
No side play in the bearing either, im really quite impressed with the condition of this deck.

My main decision now is how to cut the chassis, either
cut the side off straight
cut the side and radius the rear right corner to follow the platter
cut the side off and radius both rear corners.

I need to think about asthetics at this point.

Whats the little screw blanking the whole in the rear left corner for?

[NickG]

Theres definately room for improvement in the side play.

Yes, but we are not sure what the effect of reducing this will have on sound. Why not try it as it is, then when you reduce the play, we will find out if it does have any effect.

[Bizzie]

Originally Posted by graeme

So, the plan is, cut the right hand side of the chassis off, weld the radius edge back on to keep it looking good, and keep the strength.
I might try and strengthen the chassis, ill see when i take it apart.

I would be very carefull if you intend to weld the radius back on the steel the chassis is made from will buckle and distort from the heat build up of welding.

I thought about doing this and decided against it as I didn't want to bend the chassis if you decide to go ahead I would suggest that you just tack weld it back in several places and use car body filler to finnish it off.