KEL 34 E&I Version, PCB needed

[Tikkaman]

I'm sure it's a long shot, but does anyone know if it's still possible to get a PCB for the first version of the EL34 amp, dating from around 1999-2000?
I've been chasing a fault........on power up, valves light up, then rapidly increasing volume level on one channel, nothing on the other, and this is with volume control set to minimum. With no input, just a loud mains hum from the same channel, other is silent.
This pcb has been a test-bed for a couple of variations on the original theme, and as a result of swapping components, with the associated de-soldering and re-soldering, the tracks are starting to lift in a couple of places. Rather than spend a lot of time trying to de-bug it, I'd like to re-build it to the original design, which sounded superb.

Tikkaman

[Greg.]

In the past I've dealt with such track problems by cutting out the damaged track and replacing with a hard wired link using tinned copper wire between components affected. Very unlikely you'll find a replacement PCB now.

[bikerhifinut]

How difficult would it be to rebuild it on tagboard subassemblies like the WDKT88 amp? Might be worth a punt and cheaper in the long run than commissioning a PCB? I never liked the idea of power valve bases on PCB's anyway.
Just a mad idea.

Andy

[bikerhifinut]

Originally Posted by Greg.

In the past I've dealt with such track problems by cutting out the damaged track and replacing with a hard wired link using tinned copper wire between components affected. Very unlikely you'll find a replacement PCB now.

And putting solder pins in those reused positions Greg? I did that with a KEL84 that needed a few new resistors and things replacing. So that if they needed it again, i could simply unsolder them quickly off the pins.
A

[bob orbell]

Hi Tikkaman, I had many PCB's at the clear out and change of WD to new ownership in the early 2000's, they all went to members of this forum, the EL 34 board's went to Wieslaw Lipowski in Poland, it may be worth sending him a PM to ask if he used them all, if he has used them I doubt you will find one, Greg's post on resurrection of you board is your best bet, as is Andy's comment. BOB

[Tikkaman]

Looks like hard wiring it is the way to go. The board is 1/16" FR4, which flexes alarmingly when inserting/pulling valves.
I used 3mm stuff and through hole plated it for the KT88 build which this one spawned.

Thanks for the replies,

Tikkaman