solder iron

[mosschops]

Hi All since my dad passed I am now having to sort my own problems with my kat 6550. I have two irons one at 25 watt not hot enough and one at 40 better but i still feel it could be hotter would 60watt be better
Regards Steve

[TimN]

Yes - or hotter. I've got a 60W but often wish I had a 100W. A 60W is smaller and more maneuverable. It can fit into smaller spaces - nooks and crannies. However, a 100W can heat up a joint much quicker. Horses for courses.

[mosschops]

Many thanks Tim I will order two
Regards Steve

[TimN]

One of each I hope!

[A Stuart]

A new iron may be overkill. You are soldering bits of wire to tags, at the heaviest probably speaker wire to connector plugs, not copper water-pipes.

Different sizes of tip make a huge difference to your ability to transfer heat to the subject materials faster than it gets conducted away from the site.
This supposes that your iron takes interchangeable heads.
Also, does your iron have a variable thermostat?

On the other hand we all like new toys .

[bob orbell]

I agree with Allister, temperature controlled soldering stations are the best, look at Antex soldering products, also solder makes a big difference, low melting point solder is what most use on here, lead free is not favoured by many as it requires more heat and does not flow nicely as dose silver basted solder, but this is only for SMT components. Bob

[TimN]

I won't mention my blowtorch then.

I use this solder https://www.hificollective.co.uk/cat...th-p-4627.html . It's a bit pricey but it seems to go a long way and I like working with it. Also, I don't like the idea of breathing in lead fumes - although I suppose people have used solder with lead content for many years.

[mosschops]

Many thanks all temperature control it is then .
Regards Steve

[bob orbell]

Originally Posted by TimN

I won't mention my blowtorch then.

I use this solder https://www.hificollective.co.uk/cat...th-p-4627.html . It's a bit pricey but it seems to go a long way and I like working with it. Also, I don't like the idea of breathing in lead fumes - although I suppose people have used solder with lead content for many years.

Would not touch that stuff . Bob

[Greg.]

Using the right iron and solder makes all the difference in this hobby and over the passage of time I have learnt a lot both from experienced/professional users and my own mistakes and experience.
I would recommend a temperature controlled iron. Both digital and analogue types work well. Weller is a popular choice which have a reputation for lasting many years of frequent use. A cheaper alternative is Antex, but they are less long lived. They are fine for the average hobbyist who is not using the iron every day. I used to have an analogue temperature controlled Antex which did me well for a number of years. I did need to replace the temperature control board in the iron, but I may have just been unlucky. I now use a Metcal which are stupidly expensive, but an absolute joy to use. I just happened to get lucky when I was offered a little used second hand one. I use four different bits depending on the job. A point bit useful for repairs on commercial PCB’s and three different sized chisel bits.
I suggest the use of a low temperature melting point solder which contains a little silver. I use, as do several other experienced hobbyists a 179°C LMP solder which is 2% silver, 62% tin and 36% lead. RS Part No. 551-671.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solder/0551671