Solder

[A Stuart]

What solder does we all use these days?

I still have leaded silver solder left over from 25 years ago, but might not want to start a new kit and run out part way through, or be unable to match similar solder with future modifications. I will probably keep it back for any work on the original kits built with it.

Does mixing types really matter?

Has anyone here actually had tin whiskers develop?

Alastair

[bob orbell]

RS Components do all solders, 179-6681 is a 60/40 low melting point, I have just purchased a new roll, recommend it Alastair. Bob

[Richard]

Yes I use Tin/Lead too with 2% silver, RS 551-671. It's a bit of a big reel, had it years and share it with mate Gerry when he calls round with an empty bobbin! Not seen him for ages, damn CV.

[A Stuart]

Thanks. I did not realise leaded solder could still be sold legally. I had noticed it on fleabay, but supposed this was somewhat under-the-table sales.

Is it critical that if a joint was once made, then similar solder-type had to be used if re-soldered in the future? I am sure I read just after lead-free solder first came out that leaded and unleaded solders should not be mixed.

[Richard]

I only have a couple of regular Antex irons and find they don't work well with Tin only solder presumably because they aren't hot enough. I only come across it on modern repairs such as computer pcbs. I heat it and remove it with a sucker then resolder using Tin/Lead/Silver.

RS 551-671 is 62/36/2 and is eutectic having a very fast solid/liquid change of state with no grey pudding stage. Downside could be the low melting point I suppose but I've never had a problem with things dropping to bits! Since you're asking, and this stuff can be an expensive choice, here's an interesting page about eutectic solders,

https://fctsolder.com/eutectic-solder/

[John Caswell]

Hi all,
There are a lot of things that cannot be manufactured without lead, so banning it totally was stupid, as the EU found out. Solder is now allowed to be manufactured with a limited amount of lead.
I used to assemble PCBs for a small company and they were obliged use lead free solder. Even with all the correct temperature irons and cleaning I was not very happy with final results, dry joints were more common than with leaded solder.

John

[Phil Y]

I'm required to use lead free at work, dreadful stuff. Hardly flows, bit continually corroding up, higher temperature means you have to be careful of insulation melting and as John said, a good joint with lead free looks like a bad joint with leaded. If I'm making up, say a cable with a D connector on it, it takes probably 3 times as long as with leaded and for a worse looking result. I would never use it at home, I'm using old reels of "standard" 60/40.

Phil.

[A Stuart]

Originally Posted by Richard

https://fctsolder.com/eutectic-solder/

I've learned someting new .

[bikerhifinut]

if you try to buy leaded solder from RS you may be disappointed as they won't sell it to a private citizen because of the RoHS etc regs.
I got bitten this way although i havent tried again since I opened an account with RS.
I got a roll of 60/40 resin cored off an independent UK trader by digging around the net.
Not used it yet but i'm on my last 2m of the old stuff.
I detest unleaded solder, it never looks good and i suffer from dry joints with it so all my DIY is done with the old fashioned stuff.
Leaded solder couldnt be banned as its used in the military, avionics and medical equipment fields amongst others where reliability and service life of a joint is vital. In fact I do believe you aren't allowed to use unleaded solder in this gear.

A.

[Pingushome]

Hi,
If any of you have probs with RS I have a biz account and will get the stuff for you and post on at cost. Counter is not far from me so I can collect from RS trade counter if you need any.
I bought some leaded stuff with 2% silver years ago from Warton Metals (futures older) I think they still supply. Also HiFi collective do Cardas audio lead copper silver tin which I’ve used and is ok
Martin