WD25A crossover tweeking

Its not just on that kind of music though. On most tracks you have to concentrate to follow the base line.

It shows most on tracks that start with a bassline. The bass sounds nice, but when other instruments come in the bass sinks back into the mix a little too much.

this is why i dont really want to get a sub, im not looking for masses more bass, just a little more promenance(sp)

I will try some new stand designs, ill knock up a metal frame style and a sand filled type and see if that helps.

[Ianm2]

I have found that on many things, where the bass vanishes, I reckon its the mix for my situation, a friend reckons its power supply clipping.

hmm yes you in your own heart know them as well as anyone, and the simplest explanation, as william of ockham says is the most probable, but it could be something elsewhere, like cables, or source.

but, like you say, probably speakers or room, I suppose all failing there is the tower versions if you like these.

kel84s output tx's so seem to be a tad small tho', who am I to question Andy grove tho'.

A bizarre alternative is a graphic eq., they really work. cost you £600+ for a good un tho'.

[Cobblers]

Originally Posted by graeme

Its not just on that kind of music though. On most tracks you have to concentrate to follow the base line.

It shows most on tracks that start with a bassline. The bass sounds nice, but when other instruments come in the bass sinks back into the mix a little too much.

this is why i dont really want to get a sub, im not looking for masses more bass, just a little more promenance(sp)
.

I assume you have the speakers close enough to the back wall?

I have mine reasonably close to the back wall (well within Peters recommended guidelines) but I don't like them kissing the back wall myself as this curtails soundstaging depth somewhat, but it looks like WD might put the speakers right up against the back wall as far as possible.

Rooms make a massive difference. I chose WD25's specifically because I wanted "great bass in a small space" fed up with the small scale of mini monitors and typical 6 1/2 inch cone speakers.
This is a small listening room and many larger speakers gave one note bass or sound slow where the wd25 is super clean.

[petercom]

If you want more bass extension, depth and power then I would recommend the tower version WD25T.

There's no substitution for cabinet volume when you require bass extension.

Most designers 'cheat' by producing a bass hump in the 80Hz region. This 'sounds' like extended bass but, in reality, only produces a lumpy and ill-defined bass performance which is especially noticeable on acoustic instruments.

We didn't want WD25 to be like that and, as most users have found, the bass is super-clean and articulate.

To keep that quality and add greater bass extension and power requires a bigger cabinet volume. Which is where WD25T comes in.

You can use the same drivers and crossover (there's one small change to the crossover only which we can outline), and install in a new cabinet.

Yes, they are close to the rear wall, about 4 cm.

Good point about the cabinets peter, i might try making some. I really cant afford to buy another cabinet kit so ill try and make my own.
Could you give me the cabinet details? I just need external dimensions and an idea of how there braced. Isnt there a horizontal brace that houses the foam port, wich fires down into the lower half of the cabinet?
Thanx.

I found tha cablinet plans, the only bit it doesnt explain is the port into the lower chamber.
I see the diagram for the shelf where the foam port goes, but does the foam strip just glue over the 3 small holes?

I cant afford the cabinet kit, but would there be any chance of buying just the internal braces, cabinet damping rubber, the deadening wool and the foam for the port.
I can make the veneered outer panels and reuse my drivers and crosovers.

[petercom]

It does indeed.

And, yes, you can buy all the bits you list. Please give Nick a ring and he'll add it all up for you.

We will need to know which version of the crossover you have, but we can talk you through that when you ring.

Thanx peter. Ill be sorting it out next week so ill call him then

[Yellow]

Originally Posted by graeme

Has anyone tried any tweeks to these yet?

i'd like slightly more bass as its a little quiet in the mix for me.

The article suggests swapping L1, the coil in series with the bass unit (normaly 0.58mH) for one of 0.6mH for a 'darker, heavier bass perormance'

Sounds like this might be worth a try. Has anyone else played with this?

Ive been considering buying an active sub, but i dont want THAT much more bass Just a little more.

Changing an inductor from 0.58 to 0.6 will almost certainly yield NO difference, or very little. The manufacturing tolerance on these is at least 5%, probably more. So a 0.6mH (nominal) could in fact be 0.57mH to start with, and your 0.58 could already be 0.6mH if you get my drift!!! But it could go the other way too!!

The role of the inductor is to roll off the top-end of the bass unit, and playing with the cabinet/port aperture will yield bottom-end results. Changing the inductor will only screw-up the response. You could end up with a big dip in the mid-range that you'll then perceive as "more LF", but in reality, this may not be the case.
One simple way would be to just add a small 0.47ohm resistor in series with the tweeter, just to take a little edge off it. That will drop the response by say 0.5-1dB, resulting in a thicker, more LFy sound. Give it a try - if you have bi-wire terminals, just stick it on the outside of the +ve HF connector then connect your red HF cable to the other end of the resistor. Do both speakers of course!!!! No need to open the box up.

Neil.

[Cobblers]

Originally Posted by naimart

Graeme,
Do you have the series 3 crossover or the the series 4?

I seem to remember you where building the WD25a around the same time as I had bought mine - my kit (around May 2006) contained a series 3 crossover which has a slightly lighter balance. I think the WD25a is superb but like you wanted a little more bass. It's a long story but I now have both, a series 3 and a series 4 version of the WD25a - and I have used them with a small active sub. Currently I prefer the series 3 with the sub in my particular room and system - but there is not much in it.
Regards
Robert

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